When I was a kid, growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area, during my high school days in the 60s surfing was a new fad for us middle class, suburb dwellers. Many times we
would cut school or after school head over the hill on Hiway 17 to Santa Cruz. One of the big inspirers that got me and many others interested in Surfing was Bruce Brown whose film “Endless Summer” was an amazing insight into the world of surfing. Being a Calfornia boy, I changed my whole interest path to living on the beach, we’ll during the hours my parents let me out lol, and wearing a surfer haircut, blue tennis/boat shoes, white t-shirt and renting a surfboard when we went down to either Pleasure Point, Moss Landing, or Natural Bridges. My surfing prowess was, well let’s say, it was good I knew how to swim as I spent more time off the board than on it. In those days the boards were large, heavy and we didn’t wear leashes. So many times, we’d fall off the board, had no idea where it went, till it hits in the ribs or head. Anyway, if you get a chance to look up Bruce’s films you should. Great stuff.
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